FAQs

Absolutely. If we’re only doing part of the home, you can stay in the areas not being worked on. We plastic off the rooms under construction to keep loose dust contained and protect you and your belongings. We also set up fans to create a push-pull jetstream that helps direct airborne dust outside during sanding.

If the entire house is being done, you’re still welcome to walk through when necessary. We just ask that, during the final sanding and coating, only our crew is on the floors. This helps protect your investment—if something spills or drops and no one notices, it could show in the final result.

If you’re living in the home and need access to certain rooms, we’ll work with your schedule. For example, if you need to get upstairs to your bedroom, we’ll time the coating so you’re able to walk through before we start. Oil-based finishes take about 8 hours to dry, water-based much less.

Bottom line—we’re a team. Communicate with us and we’ll do everything we can to keep the job running smoothly, minimize dust, and get you back into your space quickly without sacrificing quality.

Yes! You can stay in your home and move through most areas, but you cannot walk on the floors while we’re sanding. We’ll let you know exactly when we need you off the floors—typically during the final smooth sanding and finishing stages. We coordinate dry times with your schedule, so you can still get the kids to bed and go about your daily routine.

Sanding is loud but not messy—we use 90% dust containment and plastic off non-work areas to keep your home clean. While no system gets 100% of the dust, we do everything possible to minimize it. We’ll work with you to keep the process smooth and efficient.

For a more in-depth look at the sanding process, feel free to check out our blog post “The Art of Sanding Hardwood Floors”.

Not quite—and no flooring company in the Philadelphia area should promise that. “Dustless hardwood floor sanding” means less dust, not zero dust. We use powerful vacuum systems on all equipment and plastic off areas not being worked on to minimize dust.

Before we begin sanding, we set up a fan system to create a cross-ventilation “jetstream” to pull airborne dust out of the space. After sanding, we vacuum window sills, tabletops, and other flat surfaces for a clean finish. We also clean our vacuum filters throughout the day, but since filters naturally clog over time, a small amount of dust may still escape.

Yes—if you want the job done efficiently and cost-effectively, the floors need to be cleared of all furniture, including heavy items like pianos. This lets us complete the job in one clean phase and helps keep your cost down.

That said, we get it—not every client has storage options or the budget for a moving crew. In those cases, we offer a two-phase option, where either the client or our team moves the furniture to one side of the house, we complete the open areas, and then switch sides. Keep in mind this adds time and cost since we’re now making multiple trips.

We can handle large furniture if needed, but we expect clients to move lighter items. If you’d like us to manage the heavy lifting, we’ll work that into the job with a formal change order.

Yes, but only large furniture (beds, dressers, sofas, etc.).

• Clients must move light furniture, knickknacks, and empty drawers/closets.
• You must provide a space for us to store furniture during the refinishing.
• If we need to shuffle furniture around, this will add extra cost due to the extended work time.

Want more details? Check out our blog post: “Can I Be in My House While My Floors Are Refinished? A Homeowner’s Guide.”

It depends on the size and scope of the project, but most standard jobs take 2–3 days.

For example:

• ~1,000 sq. ft.

• No repairs

• Floors fully cleared

• Natural finish (no stain)

Typically completed in 2–3 days

Factors that affect timing:

• Furniture removal

• Repairs or patching

• Staining vs. natural finish

• Stairs or tight areas

• Phased projects

If the space is ready and accessible, we can move very efficiently.

It depends on the finish, but I give real-world answers, not manufacturer fluff. With water-based polyurethane, you can walk on your floors and move furniture back in just 2 hours. With oil-based polyurethane, it’s 8 hours.

Weather matters—humidity can slow drying times, but I’ll guide you through the process to keep everything on track. Plus, every client gets my Closing Package, which I created years ago to cover all the do’s and don’ts—how to move furniture back, the best cleaners, when to use felt pads, and more. It answers everything you need to protect your investment and get back to life with zero worries.

Want more details? Check out our blog post: “Can I Be in My House While My Floors Are Refinished? A Homeowner’s Guide.”

Yes, we can match your floors—but expectations and perception are everything.

Here’s the truth: No two floors age the same. Lighting, UV exposure, and time all play a role. So while we can absolutely get close, you need to know that a “perfect match” means different things to different people. That’s why I walk my clients through this step-by-step.

I’ve been doing this over 20 years, and my crew and I are pros at matching existing floors—sometimes my guys even outmatch me, and I’m proud of that. You’ll get access to the stain colors we use, and I’ll have you pick a few options you think look right, since you live with the floor every day. I’ll chime in with my own suggestions, and we’ll build a solid sample lineup together.

Then, on day one of your project, I’ll lay down 15” x 15” sample swatches in the room of your choice. I always remind clients that those samples may look different in other rooms due to lighting and wall colors. If it’s a larger space, I might even lay samples in two areas to help you feel more confident in the final decision.

Once we’re aligned on the color, the real work begins—and we do it right.

And yes, if we’re moving forward together, I’ll personally come out to lay down those samples ahead of time so you feel secure before a single drop of stain hits your floors.

Bottom line: It’s about trust, process, and making the smartest choice together to protect your investment.

Hardwood floor refinishing can fix a lot of the things that make a floor look worn out: surface scratches, dull finish, uneven color, light staining, and normal traffic wear from years of use. If the wood is still in good shape, sanding and refinishing can make the floor look clean, smooth, and updated again without tearing everything out.

But refinishing is not magic. If there are deep pet stains, water damage, loose boards, cupping, rot, or areas that are too thin to sand, those issues may need to be repaired before the floor is refinished. For a deeper breakdown, see our guide to hardwood floor repair vs. refinishing.

At Hudson Hardwood, we look at the floor first and tell you what refinishing can actually solve — whether that means sanding and finishing, replacing a few boards, or recommending a different approach.

Yes—but it depends on the size of the gap.

During the sanding process, we putty all the gaps—doesn’t matter the species or type of wood. The goal is to give you that ice-rink-smooth, tight look across the floor.

Now, if you’ve got gaps larger than 1/8”, there’s a good chance we’ll need to cut out and replace those boards. That’s just the nature of real wood repairs—and it brings me to an important point most people don’t realize:

All hardwood floors expand and contract with the seasons. It’s completely natural. No putty in the world, not even the non-shrink kind, is completely immune to that. Gaps may shift, and some filler may eventually loosen up—it’s not a flaw in the work, it’s the nature of wood.

That said, we do have non-shrink putty options available if you want to go the extra mile—but even those aren’t bulletproof. You’re still working with a living, breathing material.

Every client gets a floor care guide at the end of the job that explains all of this—what to expect, how to maintain it, and how to keep your floors looking gorgeous long-term.

Sometimes, but not always. It depends on how deep the stain went into the wood.

If the stain is mostly on the surface, sanding may remove it or make it much less noticeable. But pet stains, black water marks, and moisture damage can go deeper than people expect. Once that damage gets into the grain, sanding alone may not take it all out.

That is why we check those areas before promising anything. What we’re looking for is pretty simple: can this floor be sanded and finished cleanly, or are there a few boards that need to be replaced first so the floor doesn’t still look stained when we’re done? We explain this more in our article on when hardwood floor refinishing isn’t enough.

At Hudson Hardwood, we would rather explain that up front than have a homeowner surprised later. A good refinish can make a huge difference, but the best result usually comes from knowing where sanding is enough and where repair work needs to happen first.

No. Hardwood floors can only be refinished as long as there is sufficient wood thickness remaining above the tongue-and-groove or fasteners.

Floors that have been sanded too many times may look acceptable today but cannot safely be refinished again without compromising stability.

A professional evaluation is required to determine remaining refinishing life.

Restoration is no longer viable when:

• Boards are structurally weakened, rotted, or mold-damaged

• Severe water damage affects the full thickness of the wood

• Nail heads or tongue-and-groove joints are exposed

• Subfloor issues cannot be corrected independently

In these cases, replacement is the safer and more durable solution.

When done correctly, refinished hardwood floors can last 10–20 years or longer, depending on:

• Foot traffic

• Finish type

• Maintenance habits

• Environmental conditions (humidity, sunlight, moisture)

In many older homes, restored original hardwood floors outlast newer replacement flooring.

• Pine floors: Probably not—too many gaps and excessive expansion. New floors are recommended.
• Oak floors: Usually, yes—these are typically 5/16-inch thick and can handle another sanding or two.
• Maple floors: Most likely, yes—these are typically ¾-inch thick and are harder than both pine and oak.

To learn more about repairing hardwood floors when refinishing isn’t enough, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Floor Repair: When Refinishing Isn’t Enough.”

A professional is looking at the condition of the actual wood — not just how bad the floor looks on the surface. A floor can often be restored if the boards are still solid, thick enough to sand, and not damaged beyond repair. Restoration might mean sanding, refinishing, tightening up loose areas, replacing a few bad boards, or blending new boards into the existing floor.

Replacement makes more sense when there is major water damage, rot, heavy movement, deep structural issues, or too many bad areas to make repair worthwhile. If you’re weighing both options, our guide on hardwood floor restoration vs. replacement walks through what to consider.

• Oil-Based: Rich, amber tone that deepens over time; highly durable; takes 8 hours to dry (pending weather); strong odor; can yellow with age.
• Water-Based: Clear finish that resists yellowing; dries in just 2 hours (pending weather); low odor; eco-friendly; requires more coats but still durable.

Choose oil-based for a classic, warm look and maximum durability, or water-based for quicker drying and a natural finish. Either way, I’ll guide you through the best option for your home.

To learn more about the differences between water-based and oil-based finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

Yes, oil-based finishes tend to darken over time, giving a rich, amber hue, while water-based finishes maintain the wood’s natural color. Some finishes, like stains and tinted oils, can also change the tone of the wood to match your design preferences.

To learn more about the differences between water-based and oil-based finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

Absolutely. There are several styles of hardwood floor finishes, and each one has a different level of durability, maintenance, and overall appearance. Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Single-component water-based finishes are easy to work with, low in odor and VOCs, and dry fast—perfect for standard residential traffic. They’re less durable than other finishes but still offer decent protection if properly maintained.
• Two-component water-based finishes offer next-level durability. These are often used in high-traffic residential or commercial settings. They cure harder, last longer, and are a great choice for clients who want strong protection without ambering or strong fumes.
• Oil-based polyurethane finishes have been around forever. They give a warm, amber tone that deepens over time and offer solid durability, but take much longer to dry and have a stronger smell. These work well for folks who love that traditional wood look and aren’t in a rush to move furniture back quickly.
• Penetrating oils or hardwax oils are a more natural, low-sheen option. These soak into the wood instead of forming a hard top layer. They’re beautiful, easy to spot-repair, and often chosen for a more “European” or rustic vibe—but they require more routine maintenance to keep looking fresh and protected.

As for sheen levels, most finishes come in gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and matte. Right now, ultra-matte and satin finishes are the most popular in the Philadelphia area, especially with the move toward modern, natural, or Scandinavian-style floors. Lower sheens also help hide everyday wear like dust and small scratches.

When we quote your project, we’ll walk you through which option fits your home, lifestyle, and expectations best—without overwhelming you. I keep it simple, straight, and designed to last.

Great question—and honestly, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on traffic, pets, kids, lifestyle, and most importantly, how well you maintain it.

That said, here’s what I tell all my clients after doing this for 20+ years:

If you use the cleaner I give you, keep felt pads on your furniture, avoid dragging stuff across the floors, and have mats at the entry doors, you can get 3–5 years or more out of a quality finish before needing a professional touch-up.

Now, all hardwood finishes—whether it’s single-component water-based, two-component, oil-based poly, or hardwax oils—will eventually wear down. That’s just life. But if you call me every few years for a deep clean and a single recoat, you won’t have to sand your floors again for a long, long time.

I get it—it’s a pain to move furniture. But here’s how we do it smart:

If you’re going on vacation or just need help, we’ll move the heavy stuff, you handle the light stuff, and we’ll knock out a deep clean and recoat in one day—half the house at a time. That’s how you protect your floors and avoid a full-blown resand.

Bottom line: no floor finish is bulletproof, but with proper maintenance and a little teamwork, we’ll keep your floors looking gorgeous for the long haul.

The best finish depends on how you live in the house. A floor in a quiet room does not need the same kind of finish as a kitchen, hallway, rental property, or home with kids and dogs running through it every day.

Hudson Hardwood helps homeowners choose a finish based on the wood, the color, the sheen, the traffic in the home, and how much maintenance they want to deal with later. A finish sample can look one way in a showroom or online and completely different inside your house. For more detail, read our guide to choosing the best hardwood floor finish.

The right finish should look good, but it also needs to make sense for the way the home is used. We want the floor to look right on day one, but we also want it to wear well after people start living on it again.

Polyurethane finishes (oil- or water-based) require the least maintenance because they form a protective layer on top of the wood. In contrast, penetrating oils may require periodic reapplication.

To learn more about hardwood floor finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

Hardwood floors need time to adjust to the climate and moisture levels of your home before installation. Typically, they should be allowed to acclimate for 48-72 hours. Keep the flooring in the room where it will be installed, in an environment with temperature control (ideally between 60-80°F), and humidity levels between 35%-55%.

To learn what to expect during the hardwood floor refinishing process, check out our blog post: “What to Expect During the Hardwood Floor Refinishing Process.”

• Water-based polyurethane: Dries in 2-4 hours, cures in 7-10 days
• Oil-based polyurethane: Dries in 8-24 hours, cures in 30 days
• Hardwax oil: Dries in 4-12 hours, cures in 7-21 days
• Acid-cured finish: Dries in 2-4 hours, cures in 60 days

To learn how to choose the best hardwood floor finish for your home, check out our blog post: “The Complete Guide to Choosing the Best Hardwood Floor Finish for Your Home.”

It depends on whether the scratches are in the finish or down into the wood.

Light surface scratches may only be sitting in the topcoat. Those can sometimes be improved with the right cleaner, touch-up, or a professional buff and recoat. If the floor still has a good finish on it, you may not need to sand everything down.

Deeper scratches are different. If the scratch cuts into the wood, or if the whole floor has traffic lanes, gouges, worn finish, or years of damage, then a quick fix is probably not going to solve it. That may need sanding and refinishing. In some cases, a damaged board may need to be repaired or replaced. Our repair vs. refinishing guide explains how to think through that decision.

At Hudson Hardwood, we look at the depth of the scratch and the condition of the whole floor before recommending anything.

• Prefinished floors: If you have extra boards or know the make and model, we can replace the damaged boards.
• Site-sanded floors: The only option is to replace the affected boards and refinish the entire floor.

To learn more about repairing hardwood floor damage, check out our blog post here.

Depending on the severity:

• White water stains (surface-level moisture): Use a hairdryer on low heat or apply baking soda and water.
• Dark water stains (deeper damage): Light sanding and refinishing may be required.

To learn how to remove water stains from hardwood floors, check out our blog post: “How to Remove Water Stains from Hardwood Floors.”

• Sometimes we can fix it from the top by securing loose boards.
• However, 90% of the time, we need to either:
  • Remove sections of the hardwood to reach the subfloor.
  • Cut open the ceiling underneath to reinforce the floor joists.
• This can be a costly process, depending on the severity of the squeak.

To learn more about repairing hardwood floors when refinishing isn’t enough, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Floor Repair: When Refinishing Isn’t Enough.”

Use a damp mop with a hardwood-safe cleaner and avoid excess water. Sweep or vacuum regularly to prevent dirt buildup that can scratch the surface.

• Weekly cleaning: Use a mix of half Windex, half water (light mist only).
• Annual maintenance: Deep clean and apply a single recoat every year to maintain protection. This process only takes half a day and prevents wear and tear.

For seasonal maintenance tips to keep your floors looking their best year-round, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Flooring Maintenance: Seasonal Tips to Keep Your Floors Looking New.”

For expert tips on cleaning and maintaining hardwood floors, check out our blog post: “DIY Hardwood Floor Cleaning: A Philadelphia Guide.”

Use a cleaner made for hardwood floors, and do not over-wet the floor.

That is the biggest thing. Hardwood floors do not need steam, vinegar, harsh all-purpose cleaners, oil soaps, waxes, or anything that leaves a heavy film behind. Those products can dull the finish, leave buildup, or cause damage over time.

A good hardwood floor cleaner should clean the surface without soaking the wood or eating away at the finish. Most floor problems we see from cleaning come from too much water, the wrong product, or grit being dragged across the floor without people realizing it. We cover cleaner options in more detail in our guide to hardwood floor cleaning products.

This depends on your specific flooring and any damage it may or may not have, but typically we’d say every 7-10 years.

To learn more about the hardwood floor refinishing process, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Floor Refinishing: A Philadelphia Classic.”

Yes, hardwood floors naturally change color over time due to exposure to sunlight and the environment:

• Natural darkening: Floors tend to darken as they age, particularly with oil-based finishes.
• UV damage: Sunlight can cause some floors to fade or lighten, especially lighter species like oak and maple.
• Finish impact: The type of finish (e.g., polyurethane) also affects how floors will age, with oil-based finishes causing more noticeable darkening.

To learn more about the elements that influence the longevity of hardwood floors and provides practical maintenance tips to ensure they remain in excellent condition for decades, read the following blog post here. 

To explore the factors that influence the longevity of hardwood floors and get practical maintenance tips to keep them looking great for years, check out our blog post: “The Lifespan of Hardwood Floors: What Factors Affect Durability?”

Harder wood species like oak, hickory, and maple combined with a durable finish (such as polyurethane) work best for high-traffic areas.

For a guide on choosing the perfect hardwood flooring for high-traffic areas, check out our blog post: “How to Choose the Perfect Hardwood Floor for High-Traffic Areas.”

It depends on your space, lifestyle, and the look you’re going for.

• Dark floors create a richer, more dramatic look, but they tend to show dust, scratches, and wear more easily—especially in high-traffic areas or homes with pets.

• Light floors make spaces feel brighter and more open, and they’re better at hiding dust, minor scratches, and everyday wear.

In general, lighter tones are more forgiving, while darker tones make more of a visual statement but require more upkeep.

If you’re not sure which direction makes the most sense for your home, we can help you choose a finish that balances both appearance and long-term durability.

For most rental units, a professional cleaning between tenants is the baseline. In higher-traffic properties, periodic cleanings during tenancy can help prevent buildup that leads to premature wear. A consistent schedule is key to maintaining appearance and extending floor life across units.

Yes—especially if you’re managing multiple units. Professional cleaning removes embedded dirt and residue that standard cleaning misses, helping restore appearance and prevent long-term damage. It’s a relatively low-cost step that can reduce the need for more expensive repairs or refinishing later.

In many cases, yes. Regular cleaning combined with occasional maintenance coating can significantly extend the life of your floors by protecting the finish and reducing surface wear. This helps delay full sanding and refinishing, which is more time-consuming and costly.

Cleaning removes dirt and buildup from the surface.
Maintenance coating adds a protective layer to extend the life of the existing finish.
Refinishing involves sanding down the floor and applying a completely new finish.

We’ll recommend the right option based on the condition of your floors and your goals for the property.

If you’re seeing deeper scratches, worn-through finish, or uneven discoloration, a maintenance coat or refinishing may be the better option. We assess each unit and recommend only what’s necessary—so you’re not overinvesting where it’s not needed.

Yes. Hudson Hardwood can help homeowners, property owners, and managers take care of hardwood floors across multiple properties or over time.

With multiple properties, the issue is usually timing. Floors may need attention between tenants, before a sale, after construction work, or before a homeowner moves in. Sometimes the floor needs a full refinish. Sometimes it only needs a maintenance coat or a few repairs. For property owners, we also explain the benefits of hardwood flooring in investment properties.

Hudson Hardwood can look at each floor and help decide what actually needs to be done: cleaning, recoating, repair, refinishing, restoration, or replacement in certain areas. The goal is to keep the floors looking cared for and prevent small issues from turning into bigger, more expensive ones.

A lot of times, yes.

Not because buyers expect perfect floors, but because they notice bad ones fast. If the floors look dull, scratched up, stained, yellowed, or worn out in the main living areas, that can drag down the way the whole house feels.

A few scratches are normal. That is not usually the issue. The issue is when the floors are the thing buyers notice before they notice the room.

If the hardwood is making the house feel tired or dated, refinishing is often worth looking into before listing. The best move is to have the floors checked and figure out whether they need a full refinish, a lighter recoat, or just a good cleaning.

If the wood is still in good shape, refinishing is usually the first option to look at.

Replacement is a bigger job, bigger expense, and usually not where you want to start unless the floor is too far gone. If the boards are structurally sound and the problem is mainly wear, surface scratches, dull finish, or outdated color, refinishing can usually get the floor where it needs to be.

Replacement makes more sense when you are dealing with major damage — things like severe water damage, deep pet stains that have gone through the wood, failing boards, or floors that cannot be sanded again.

Refinishing can fix a lot. It is not magic. The floor still has to be a good candidate for it.

Sooner than the week before photos.

If you are thinking about refinishing before listing, it is better to handle that early in the prep process. That gives you time to get the work done right, let the floors dry and cure properly, and get the house ready for photos, staging, and showings without scrambling.

The exact timing depends on the size of the job, whether repairs are needed, and what kind of finish is being used. But in general, the earlier you look at it, the better.

Waiting too long usually limits your options and creates stress that could have been avoided.