Frequently Asked Questions

Absolutely. If we’re only doing part of the home, you can stay in the areas not being worked on. We plastic off the rooms under construction to keep loose dust contained and protect you and your belongings. We also set up fans to create a push-pull jetstream that helps direct airborne dust outside during sanding.

If the entire house is being done, you’re still welcome to walk through when necessary. We just ask that, during the final sanding and coating, only our crew is on the floors. This helps protect your investment—if something spills or drops and no one notices, it could show in the final result.

If you’re living in the home and need access to certain rooms, we’ll work with your schedule. For example, if you need to get upstairs to your bedroom, we’ll time the coating so you’re able to walk through before we start. Oil-based finishes take about 8 hours to dry, water-based much less.

Bottom line—we’re a team. Communicate with us and we’ll do everything we can to keep the job running smoothly, minimize dust, and get you back into your space quickly without sacrificing quality.

Yes! You can stay in your home and move through most areas, but you cannot walk on the floors while we’re sanding. We’ll let you know exactly when we need you off the floors—typically during the final smooth sanding and finishing stages. We coordinate dry times with your schedule, so you can still get the kids to bed and go about your daily routine.

Sanding is loud but not messy—we use 90% dust containment and plastic off non-work areas to keep your home clean. While no system gets 100% of the dust, we do everything possible to minimize it. We’ll work with you to keep the process smooth and efficient.

For a more in-depth look at the sanding process, feel free to check out our blog post “The Art of Sanding Hardwood Floors”.

Not quite—and no flooring company in the Philadelphia area should promise that. “Dustless hardwood floor sanding” means less dust, not zero dust. We use powerful vacuum systems on all equipment and plastic off areas not being worked on to minimize dust.

Before we begin sanding, we set up a fan system to create a cross-ventilation “jetstream” to pull airborne dust out of the space. After sanding, we vacuum window sills, tabletops, and other flat surfaces for a clean finish. We also clean our vacuum filters throughout the day, but since filters naturally clog over time, a small amount of dust may still escape.

Yes—but it depends on the size of the gap.

During the sanding process, we putty all the gaps—doesn’t matter the species or type of wood. The goal is to give you that ice-rink-smooth, tight look across the floor.

Now, if you’ve got gaps larger than 1/8”, there’s a good chance we’ll need to cut out and replace those boards. That’s just the nature of real wood repairs—and it brings me to an important point most people don’t realize:

All hardwood floors expand and contract with the seasons. It’s completely natural. No putty in the world, not even the non-shrink kind, is completely immune to that. Gaps may shift, and some filler may eventually loosen up—it’s not a flaw in the work, it’s the nature of wood.

That said, we do have non-shrink putty options available if you want to go the extra mile—but even those aren’t bulletproof. You’re still working with a living, breathing material.

Every client gets a floor care guide at the end of the job that explains all of this—what to expect, how to maintain it, and how to keep your floors looking gorgeous long-term.

Yes—if you want the job done efficiently and cost-effectively, the floors need to be cleared of all furniture, including heavy items like pianos. This lets us complete the job in one clean phase and helps keep your cost down.

That said, we get it—not every client has storage options or the budget for a moving crew. In those cases, we offer a two-phase option, where either the client or our team moves the furniture to one side of the house, we complete the open areas, and then switch sides. Keep in mind this adds time and cost since we’re now making multiple trips.

We can handle large furniture if needed, but we expect clients to move lighter items. If you’d like us to manage the heavy lifting, we’ll work that into the job with a formal change order.

Yes, we can match your floors—but expectations and perception are everything.

Here’s the truth: No two floors age the same. Lighting, UV exposure, and time all play a role. So while we can absolutely get close, you need to know that a “perfect match” means different things to different people. That’s why I walk my clients through this step-by-step.

I’ve been doing this over 20 years, and my crew and I are pros at matching existing floors—sometimes my guys even outmatch me, and I’m proud of that. You’ll get access to the stain colors we use, and I’ll have you pick a few options you think look right, since you live with the floor every day. I’ll chime in with my own suggestions, and we’ll build a solid sample lineup together.

Then, on day one of your project, I’ll lay down 15” x 15” sample swatches in the room of your choice. I always remind clients that those samples may look different in other rooms due to lighting and wall colors. If it’s a larger space, I might even lay samples in two areas to help you feel more confident in the final decision.

Once we’re aligned on the color, the real work begins—and we do it right.

And yes, if we’re moving forward together, I’ll personally come out to lay down those samples ahead of time so you feel secure before a single drop of stain hits your floors.

Bottom line: It’s about trust, process, and making the smartest choice together to protect your investment.

It depends on the size and scope of the job—but we move fast without sacrificing quality.

For example:

Let’s say it’s around 1,000 sq. ft., no repairs, furniture is off the floors, and we’re going natural with three coats of finish (no stain, no stairs). We can usually knock that out in 3 days max.

But there are variables—like:

• Who’s handling the furniture—you or us?
• Are the floors completely clear on day one?
• Any repairs or patchwork needed?
• Are we dealing with steps, closets, or tight access?

If the job is more complex or staged in phases, we adjust the timeline—but again, we’ve got the crew and systems to move quickly while keeping the quality high.

Now—if you’re not doing a full sanding and just need a buff and coat (also known as screen and recoat, dustless refinishing, or non-sand refinishing), we can often have you back on your floors the same day. That’s a one-day process and far less invasive—but it does not change the color of the floors or remove deep scratches. It’s best for floors that just need a facelift, not a full reset.

Bottom line: We’ll have you back on your floors faster than anyone in the area—without sacrificing quality.

We work long hours, and if the house is fully open and the client is good with it, we’ll even work into the night to get it done right.

It depends on the finish, but I give real-world answers, not manufacturer fluff. With water-based polyurethane, you can walk on your floors and move furniture back in just 2 hours. With oil-based polyurethane, it’s 8 hours.

Weather matters—humidity can slow drying times, but I’ll guide you through the process to keep everything on track. Plus, every client gets my Closing Package, which I created years ago to cover all the do’s and don’ts—how to move furniture back, the best cleaners, when to use felt pads, and more. It answers everything you need to protect your investment and get back to life with zero worries.

Want more details? Check out our blog post: “Can I Be in My House While My Floors Are Refinished? A Homeowner’s Guide.”

• Water-based polyurethane: Dries in 2-4 hours, cures in 7-10 days
• Oil-based polyurethane: Dries in 8-24 hours, cures in 30 days
• Hardwax oil: Dries in 4-12 hours, cures in 7-21 days
• Acid-cured finish: Dries in 2-4 hours, cures in 60 days

To learn how to choose the best hardwood floor finish for your home, check out our blog post: “The Complete Guide to Choosing the Best Hardwood Floor Finish for Your Home.”

Let me be honest—hardwood floor refinishing is one of the most inconvenient home improvement projects you’ll ever deal with. Unlike other contractors, I’m keeping you off your floors—the very surface you use every day.

That’s why my priority is twofold: protect your investment and get you back in your home as fast as possible.

If we’re using a water-based finish, I can often get clients and furniture back on the floors just 2 hours after the final coat—without sacrificing quality or durability. You’ll still want to avoid area rugs and cleaning with any liquid for 7 days to let the finish fully cure.

If we’re using an oil-based finish, most homes are ready for furniture again in about 8 hours, but liquids and rugs need to stay off the floor for 30 days.

Here at Hudson Hardwood, I know every trick in the book to streamline the process without compromising the job. There’s more I can share once we’re working together, but the bottom line is this:

I will get you back on your floors faster than anyone else, and the work will still hold up beautifully.

Let me be honest—hardwood floor refinishing is one of the most inconvenient home improvement projects you’ll ever deal with. Unlike other contractors, I’m keeping you off your floors—the very surface you use every day.

That’s why my priority is twofold: protect your investment and get you back in your home as fast as possible.

If we’re using a water-based finish, I can often get clients and furniture back on the floors just 2 hours after the final coat—without sacrificing quality or durability. You’ll still want to avoid area rugs and cleaning with any liquid for 7 days to let the finish fully cure.

If we’re using an oil-based finish, most homes are ready for furniture again in about 8 hours, but liquids and rugs need to stay off the floor for 30 days.

Here at Hudson Hardwood, I know every trick in the book to streamline the process without compromising the job. There’s more I can share once we’re working together, but the bottom line is this:

I will get you back on your floors faster than anyone else, and the work will still hold up beautifully.

Hardwood floors need time to adjust to the climate and moisture levels of your home before installation. Typically, they should be allowed to acclimate for 48-72 hours. Keep the flooring in the room where it will be installed, in an environment with temperature control (ideally between 60-80°F), and humidity levels between 35%-55%.

To learn what to expect during the hardwood floor refinishing process, check out our blog post: “What to Expect During the Hardwood Floor Refinishing Process.”

• Oil-Based: Rich, amber tone that deepens over time; highly durable; takes 8 hours to dry (pending weather); strong odor; can yellow with age.
• Water-Based: Clear finish that resists yellowing; dries in just 2 hours (pending weather); low odor; eco-friendly; requires more coats but still durable.

Choose oil-based for a classic, warm look and maximum durability, or water-based for quicker drying and a natural finish. Either way, I’ll guide you through the best option for your home.

To learn more about the differences between water-based and oil-based finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

Yes, oil-based finishes tend to darken over time, giving a rich, amber hue, while water-based finishes maintain the wood’s natural color. Some finishes, like stains and tinted oils, can also change the tone of the wood to match your design preferences.

To learn more about the differences between water-based and oil-based finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

Great question—and honestly, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on traffic, pets, kids, lifestyle, and most importantly, how well you maintain it.

That said, here’s what I tell all my clients after doing this for 20+ years:

If you use the cleaner I give you, keep felt pads on your furniture, avoid dragging stuff across the floors, and have mats at the entry doors, you can get 3–5 years or more out of a quality finish before needing a professional touch-up.

Now, all hardwood finishes—whether it’s single-component water-based, two-component, oil-based poly, or hardwax oils—will eventually wear down. That’s just life. But if you call me every few years for a deep clean and a single recoat, you won’t have to sand your floors again for a long, long time.

I get it—it’s a pain to move furniture. But here’s how we do it smart:

If you’re going on vacation or just need help, we’ll move the heavy stuff, you handle the light stuff, and we’ll knock out a deep clean and recoat in one day—half the house at a time. That’s how you protect your floors and avoid a full-blown resand.

Bottom line: no floor finish is bulletproof, but with proper maintenance and a little teamwork, we’ll keep your floors looking gorgeous for the long haul.

Absolutely. There are several styles of hardwood floor finishes, and each one has a different level of durability, maintenance, and overall appearance. Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Single-component water-based finishes are easy to work with, low in odor and VOCs, and dry fast—perfect for standard residential traffic. They’re less durable than other finishes but still offer decent protection if properly maintained.
• Two-component water-based finishes offer next-level durability. These are often used in high-traffic residential or commercial settings. They cure harder, last longer, and are a great choice for clients who want strong protection without ambering or strong fumes.
• Oil-based polyurethane finishes have been around forever. They give a warm, amber tone that deepens over time and offer solid durability, but take much longer to dry and have a stronger smell. These work well for folks who love that traditional wood look and aren’t in a rush to move furniture back quickly.
• Penetrating oils or hardwax oils are a more natural, low-sheen option. These soak into the wood instead of forming a hard top layer. They’re beautiful, easy to spot-repair, and often chosen for a more “European” or rustic vibe—but they require more routine maintenance to keep looking fresh and protected.

As for sheen levels, most finishes come in gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and matte. Right now, ultra-matte and satin finishes are the most popular in the Philadelphia area, especially with the move toward modern, natural, or Scandinavian-style floors. Lower sheens also help hide everyday wear like dust and small scratches.

When we quote your project, we’ll walk you through which option fits your home, lifestyle, and expectations best—without overwhelming you. I keep it simple, straight, and designed to last.

Use a damp mop with a hardwood-safe cleaner and avoid excess water. Sweep or vacuum regularly to prevent dirt buildup that can scratch the surface.

For expert tips on cleaning and maintaining hardwood floors, check out our blog post: “DIY Hardwood Floor Cleaning: A Philadelphia Guide.”

• Weekly cleaning: Use a mix of half Windex, half water (light mist only).
• Annual maintenance: Deep clean and apply a single recoat every year to maintain protection. This process only takes half a day and prevents wear and tear.

For seasonal maintenance tips to keep your floors looking their best year-round, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Flooring Maintenance: Seasonal Tips to Keep Your Floors Looking New.”

pH-neutral, non-abrasive cleaners designed specifically for hardwood floors work best. Avoid ammonia-based or wax-based products, as they can damage the finish.

For tips on choosing the best cleaning products to keep your floors looking their best, check out our blog post: “The Ultimate Guide to Hardwood Floor Cleaning Products.”

Use a damp mop with a hardwood-safe cleaner and avoid excess water. Sweep or vacuum regularly to prevent dirt buildup that can scratch the surface.

For expert tips on cleaning and maintaining hardwood floors, check out our blog post here.

• Weekly cleaning: Use a mix of half Windex, half water (light mist only).
• Annual maintenance: Deep clean and apply a single recoat every year to maintain protection. This process only takes half a day and prevents wear and tear.

For seasonal maintenance tips to keep your floors looking their best year-round, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Flooring Maintenance: Seasonal Tips to Keep Your Floors Looking New.”

Polyurethane finishes (oil- or water-based) require the least maintenance because they form a protective layer on top of the wood. In contrast, penetrating oils may require periodic reapplication.

To learn more about hardwood floor finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

This depends on your specific flooring and any damage it may or may not have, but typically we’d say every 7-10 years.

To learn more about the hardwood floor refinishing process, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Floor Refinishing: A Philadelphia Classic.”

• For minor scratches, use a hardwood floor marker or buff them out with a microfiber cloth.
• For deeper scratches, light sanding and a stain touch-up may be needed.
• For severe damage, refinishing may be necessary.

To learn how to fix scratches on hardwood floors, check out our blog post: “How to Fix Scratches in Hardwood Floors from a Dog.”

• Prefinished floors: If you have extra boards or know the make and model, we can replace the damaged boards.
• Site-sanded floors: The only option is to replace the affected boards and refinish the entire floor.

To learn more about repairing hardwood floor damage, check out our blog post here.

Depending on the severity:

• White water stains (surface-level moisture): Use a hairdryer on low heat or apply baking soda and water.
• Dark water stains (deeper damage): Light sanding and refinishing may be required.

To learn how to remove water stains from hardwood floors, check out our blog post: “How to Remove Water Stains from Hardwood Floors.”

• Sometimes we can fix it from the top by securing loose boards.
• However, 90% of the time, we need to either:
  • Remove sections of the hardwood to reach the subfloor.
  • Cut open the ceiling underneath to reinforce the floor joists.
• This can be a costly process, depending on the severity of the squeak.

To learn more about repairing hardwood floors when refinishing isn’t enough, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Floor Repair: When Refinishing Isn’t Enough.”

• Pine floors: Probably not—too many gaps and excessive expansion. New floors are recommended.
• Oak floors: Usually, yes—these are typically 5/16-inch thick and can handle another sanding or two.
• Maple floors: Most likely, yes—these are typically ¾-inch thick and are harder than both pine and oak.

To learn more about repairing hardwood floors when refinishing isn’t enough, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Floor Repair: When Refinishing Isn’t Enough.”

It depends on your preference and lifestyle:

• Dark floors: Hide dirt but show scratches and dust more easily.
• Light floors: Brighten a space, hide dust better, and make rooms feel larger.

To learn more about repairing hardwood floors when refinishing isn’t enough, check out our blog post: “Hardwood Floor Repair: When Refinishing Isn’t Enough.”

The best finish depends on:

• Durability needs – High-traffic areas may require polyurethane.
• Appearance – Oil-based finishes give warmth, while water-based keep a natural look.
• Maintenance – Polyurethane lasts longer, but oil finishes allow for easier spot repairs.

To learn more about hardwood floor finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

Harder wood species like oak, hickory, and maple combined with a durable finish (such as polyurethane) work best for high-traffic areas.

For a guide on choosing the perfect hardwood flooring for high-traffic areas, check out our blog post: “How to Choose the Perfect Hardwood Floor for High-Traffic Areas.”

The best finish depends on:

• Durability needs – High-traffic areas may require polyurethane.
• Appearance – Oil-based finishes give warmth, while water-based keep a natural look.
• Maintenance – Polyurethane lasts longer, but oil finishes allow for easier spot repairs.

To learn more about hardwood floor finishes, check out our blog post: “Understanding Hardwood Floor Finishes: Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Polyurethane.”

Yes, hardwood floors naturally change color over time due to exposure to sunlight and the environment:

• Natural darkening: Floors tend to darken as they age, particularly with oil-based finishes.
• UV damage: Sunlight can cause some floors to fade or lighten, especially lighter species like oak and maple.
• Finish impact: The type of finish (e.g., polyurethane) also affects how floors will age, with oil-based finishes causing more noticeable darkening.

To learn more about the elements that influence the longevity of hardwood floors and provides practical maintenance tips to ensure they remain in excellent condition for decades, read the following blog post here. 

To explore the factors that influence the longevity of hardwood floors and get practical maintenance tips to keep them looking great for years, check out our blog post: “The Lifespan of Hardwood Floors: What Factors Affect Durability?”

Yes, but only large furniture (beds, dressers, sofas, etc.).

• Clients must move light furniture, knickknacks, and empty drawers/closets.
• You must provide a space for us to store furniture during the refinishing.
• If we need to shuffle furniture around, this will add extra cost due to the extended work time.

Want more details? Check out our blog post: “Can I Be in My House While My Floors Are Refinished? A Homeowner’s Guide.”